Sterhuis

The weather during ripening of the 2004 vintage resulted in wines that are developing more slowly than usual, comments André Kruger from the family farm on the Bottelary Hills, 'and they should last much longer than the previous vintage'. Two hectares of sauvignon blanc and one of merlot went into the ground last year, a cool 350-400m above sea level; irrigation is being installed to further vine health. Son Johan, previously at Jordan, is now winemaking at Diemersdal, whose cellar he will use for the family brand.

André Kruger who bargained that an investment in A-grade vineyards would outperform any retirement annuity, acquired Sterhuis on the slopes of the Bottelary Hills in 1980.

For a long time, Sterhuis sold its grapes to wholesale producers. From the 2002 vintage, however, Kruger Snr and Jnr started to make wines under their own label, and these are attracting increasing critical acclaim with each subsequent release.

Along comes the Sterhuis Chardonnay, and it promptly picks up a 4½ Star rating in the June issue of WINE magazine.

At 30 years old, Kruger Jnr has no formal degree in winemaking. He says he learnt his trade at the "University of Passionville" (so much for Stellenbosch's Department of Viticulture and Oenology, or Elsenburg). He then inveigled his way into a position at Stellenbosch farm Jordan from 2000, as well as working the 2000 season at Chardonnay-specialist cellar Sonoma-Cutrer Vineyards in California. A growing passion for Chardonnay gained extra impetus when he watched a vig-neron playing violin to his vineyards while on a trip to Burgundy.

The 2004 Chardonnay has plenty of weight and power, but manages to retain not a little finesse and complexity. Natural yeast fermentation and 10 months in 100% new French oak make for a heady mixture.

It's a big, thrilling wine and there will be plenty who love it, but there will also be those who don't. They'll criticise it for being too rich and ripe, full of all the current stylish Chardonnay tricks.